2022 Youth World Championships Recap

Sep 6, 2022

Canada’s best young climbers were on display this August in Dallas, USA at the annual Youth World Championships. 38 athletes competed over 10 days in all 3 disciplines (Boulder, Speed and Lead) from Aug 22-Aug 31. Canada had 18 entries in Boulder, 18 in Lead, and 14 in Speed.

The Team was supported by an amazing crew of 7 CEC staff members, alongside friends and family. The results we saw in Dallas prove that there is a lot to be excited about for the next generation of Canadian athletes. Here is a recap of the action:

Boulder

Bouldering took the stage to kick-off the 2022 YWC from Aug 22-25. CEC athletes showed very well amongst a strong international field, with 5 athletes moving through to the semi-finals: Ethan Hoffman, Jaxson MacDonald, Jacqueline Ho, Oscar Baudrand and Dylan Le. They all had strong semi-final rounds with Ethan missing the final round by only one place!

Canada finished with a best ever ranking of 5th in the Country Rankings for Males and 17th for Females, as well as a combined 9th in Boulder!!

Canadian Results – Boulder:
Full Boulder Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Ethan Hoffman (7); Jaxson MacDonald (10); TJ Foley (37)
  • Junior Female: Makayla-Skye Koci (31); Emilia Callanan (33); Riley Galloway (38)
  • Youth A Male: Oscar Baudrand (11); Dylan Le (12); Benjamin Chapman (39)
  • Youth A Female: Jacqueline Ho (19); Alexa Vanier (31); Evangelina Briggs (40)
  • Youth B Male: Christian Chan (25); Nathaniel Smith (26); Evan Lau (36)
  • Youth B Female: Anna Kelley (22); Sienna Chow (36); Graciela Briggs (39)

Speed

Canada’s Speed climbers were next to take up the challenge, and they did so in style with another 5 athletes through to the semi-final (round of 16): Dylan Le, Reena Gao, Riley Galloway, Oceane Gelinas, and Ines Ferrarini. Dylan Le and Reena Gao both snagged top 10 finishes, with Oceane Gelinas and Ines Ferrarini posting top 15’s.

In Speed Country Rankings, it was the Women leading the way with a 6th place ranking to go along with the Men’s 9th for another overall top 10 country ranking of 7th for Canada!

Canadian Results – Speed:
Full Speed Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Braeden Bossert (22);
  • Junior Female: Riley Galloway (top 16); Louisa Krusekopf (17)
  • Youth A Male: Dylan Le (top 8); Jack Whitney (22); Adrien Levesque (23)
  • Youth A Female: Reena Gao (top 8); Kameryn Carroll (17); Cedar Hendry (19)
  • Youth B Male: Evan Lau (18); Colby Gaine (21)
  • Youth B Female: Oceane Gelinas (top 16); Ines Ferrarini (top 16); Sienna Chow (17)

Lead

It was left to the Lead Team to close out the 2022 YWC and they didn’t disappoint. 7 CEC athletes climbed into the semi-finals: Ethan Hoffman, Hugo Dorval, Indiana Chapman, Emi Takashiba, Molly Dreher, Dylan Le and Evan Lau. Indiana Chapman posted the highest result at 12th while Hugo Dorval managed a 17th place finish in his first Youth World’s.

Canada finished 12th in the Country Rankings for Lead on the strength of 13th for the Men and 16th for the Women!

Canadian Results – Lead:
Full Lead Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Hugo Dorval (17); Ethan Hoffman (18); Jaxson MacDonald (27)
  • Junior Female: Indiana Chapman (12); Emi Takashiba (20); Alexis Binder (29)
  • Youth A Male: Dylan Le (21); Benjamin Tonnos (36); Adam Edwards (39)
  • Youth A Female: Molly Dreher (22); Jacqueline Ho (33); Alexa Vanier (37)
  • Youth B Male: Evan Lau (24); Nathaniel Smith (33); Brody Rapkowski (34)
  • Youth B Female: Sienna Chow (30); Sofie King (39); Sloane Betker (48)

 

Notes and Highlights

This year was the first time since 2019 that Canada has been allowed/abled to send athletes to the YWC. Despite the shutdowns, interruptions to training and other challenges brought on by the pandemic, these young athletes performed very well and showed improved depth.

A couple of noteworthy accomplishments came from Dylan Le, Ethan Hoffman and Reena Gao.

  • Dylan made it to the semi-final (or round of 16) in all 3 disciplines (boulder, speed, lead)! This is something achieved by a very small number of athletes in today’s world of specialization! This performance includes an 8th place finish in Speed.
  • Ethan made the semi-final in both Boulder and Lead and posted a Canadian Team Best result of 7th in Boulder.
  • Reena produced Personal Records in each of her speed runs to finish 8th in Speed. She posted a PR of 9.04s in the 1/4 final taking more than 1.5s off her PR in less than a month!

 

All of these accomplishments would not have been possible without an incredible CEC Staff team in Dallas. CEC would like to acknowledge and share appreciation for the dedicated individuals who were there to support our athletes:

  • Team Manager – Michelle Linhart
  • Men’s Head Coach – Dallas Mix
  • Women’s Head Coach – Nani Woollings
  • Asiistant Coaches – Beth Staubitz, Patrick Labelle, Fred Desgranges, Andrei Mandzuk

 

Well done Team Canada, Well Done!!!

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Huuuuge shoutout to @hubclimbing for hosting our Lead Nationals! We couldn't run these comps without our fantastic gym partners and the team working with us to make the magic happen. Thank you for all you've done for our athletes!

Un grand bravo à @hubclimbing pour avoir accueilli nos Lead Nationals ! Nous ne pourrions pas organiser ces compétitions sans nos fantastiques partenaires de gym et l'équipe qui travaille avec nous pour que la magie opère. Merci pour tout ce que vous avez fait pour nos athlètes!

Huuuuge shoutout to @hubclimbing for hosting our Lead Nationals! We couldn't run these comps without our fantastic gym partners and the team working with us to make the magic happen. Thank you for all you've done for our athletes!

Un grand bravo à @hubclimbing pour avoir accueilli nos Lead Nationals ! Nous ne pourrions pas organiser ces compétitions sans nos fantastiques partenaires de gym et l'équipe qui travaille avec nous pour que la magie opère. Merci pour tout ce que vous avez fait pour nos athlètes!
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