Performance Data: Part 1 – Boulder

COACHES TOOL BOX EDITION#3
USING PERFORMANCE DATA: PART 1

Quick Note on COVID-19:

We understand that many of our community are now (or will soon be) in “lockdown” and without access to training facilities. This is a very difficult time and we empathize with the challenges. 

It may not be currently possible to implement the concepts presented below. A suggestion is to use the tool to analyze video of a favorite World Cup athlete. Find out how the best athletes manage time and problem solve.  

In the last installment of the coach’s toolbox we looked at how to use Individual Performance Plans (IPP) and Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) to make more practice more deliberate and productive. The next installments will look how to incorporate Performance Data into training plans. It will be presented in 3 parts covering tools to track performance data in all 3 disciplines.

The collection and analysis of data from competitions and simulations (mock competitions) can provide valuable insight into an athlete’s behavioral habits. Performance Data can’t provide all the answers, but it can show where to look and where to ask more questions. 

Once behaviors and/or tactics that could be improved have been identified, it is possible set targets that encourage changes.

Part 1 – Boulder InRound Tracking Form

Link to Template

This form tracks the following:

  1. Total Attempts in the Round
  2. Attempt Distribution for each 5 min interval
  3. Problem Solving
  4. Boulder Demands and Performance

These are 4 critical observations that provide insight into how an athlete behaves during a competition round.

Let’s look at how the form works. Click on each Image to see in Larger View

The first Tab is where data is collected: 

For each Boulder in the Round, record the following:

The 2nd Tab has compiled data and ability to compare with pre set targets:

Although this form is not set up to compile it automatically, data can also be used to identify which physical and technical demands are strengths and weaknesses.

Using this form regularly in competition and simulations will help athletes understand and practice how they operate under comp conditions.

One of the benefits of tracking these types of data is to ensure that athletes are training under conditions that encourage behaviors and habits that are needed for success in competition.

A good example of this relates to time management. How often do athletes train with attempt and/or time limits on boulders? If an athlete spends the majority of training with infinite attempts and time, they will likely do the same in competition. It takes practice to be able to read a boulder and get to the first attempt within a minute, to rest longer on physically intense boulders, to trust a read and climb decisively. 

A second area that can be exposed is problem solving. How often do athletes get a correct read “given” to them after only 1 attempt in training (either from coaches or watching teammates)? Does this help problem solving skills? It is the coach’s role to provide a training framework that encourages optimal habits and decision making.

In part 2, we examine a Lead InRound Tracking Form.

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Bonne semaine nationale des entraîneurs ! Merci pour tout ce que vous faites pour nos athlètes partout au pays. #mercicoach
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Happy National Coaches Week! Thanks for all you do for our athletes all across the country. #thankscoach
@sportcanada.en

Link in bio / Lien en bio

Bonne semaine nationale des entraîneurs ! Merci pour tout ce que vous faites pour nos athlètes partout au pays. #mercicoach
@sportcanada.fr
#petrocanada
@coach.ca
...

The @ifsclimbing released, earlier this week, its 2023 Competition Calendar. There will be 12 World Cups in 10 countries, including six events in each of the sport climbing discipline: bouldering speed and lead.

Link in bio / Lien en bio

L’IFSC a publié, plus tôt cette semaine, son calendrier des compétitions 2023. Il y aura 12 Coupes du monde dans 10 pays, dont six épreuves dans chacune des disciplines de l’escalade sportive : vitesse, bloc, et diffidulté.

The @ifsclimbing released, earlier this week, its 2023 Competition Calendar. There will be 12 World Cups in 10 countries, including six events in each of the sport climbing discipline: bouldering speed and lead.

Link in bio / Lien en bio

L’IFSC a publié, plus tôt cette semaine, son calendrier des compétitions 2023. Il y aura 12 Coupes du monde dans 10 pays, dont six épreuves dans chacune des disciplines de l’escalade sportive : vitesse, bloc, et diffidulté.
...

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