Performance Data: Part 2 – Lead

COACHES TOOL BOX EDITION#4
USING PERFORMANCE DATA: PART 2

Quick Note on COVID-19:

We understand that many of our community are now (or will soon be) in “lockdown” and without access to training facilities. This is a very difficult time and we continue to empathize with the challenges. 

It may not be currently possible to implement the concepts presented below. A suggestion is to use the tool to analyze video of a favorite World Cup athlete. Find out how the best athletes manage energy and time.  

In the last installment of the coach’s toolbox we looked at collecting Performance Data for Bouldering. This month, we’ll look at Lead Data Collection

Part 2 – Lead InRound Tracking Form

Link to Template

This form tracks the following:

  1. Preparation Components – Warm-up & Visualization of the Route
  2. Energy Management
  3. Route Management

These are 3 critical areas that provide insight into how an athlete behaves during a competition round.

Let’s look at how the form works. Click on each Image to see in Larger View

The first Tab is where data is collected: 

For each route, record the following:

The 2nd Tab has compiled data:

Round Data is conditionally formatted to change colour relative to values entered in “Targets”. 

The resulting information can help shape training objectives such as time on holds, repeater intervals, pacing targets and more.

In part 3, we examine a Speed InRound Tracking Form.

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Happy National Coaches Week! Thanks for all you do for our athletes all across the country. #thankscoach 
@sportcanada.en 

Link in bio / Lien en bio

Bonne semaine nationale des entraîneurs ! Merci pour tout ce que vous faites pour nos athlètes partout au pays. #mercicoach
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Happy National Coaches Week! Thanks for all you do for our athletes all across the country. #thankscoach
@sportcanada.en

Link in bio / Lien en bio

Bonne semaine nationale des entraîneurs ! Merci pour tout ce que vous faites pour nos athlètes partout au pays. #mercicoach
@sportcanada.fr
#petrocanada
@coach.ca
...

The @ifsclimbing released, earlier this week, its 2023 Competition Calendar. There will be 12 World Cups in 10 countries, including six events in each of the sport climbing discipline: bouldering speed and lead.

Link in bio / Lien en bio

L’IFSC a publié, plus tôt cette semaine, son calendrier des compétitions 2023. Il y aura 12 Coupes du monde dans 10 pays, dont six épreuves dans chacune des disciplines de l’escalade sportive : vitesse, bloc, et diffidulté.

The @ifsclimbing released, earlier this week, its 2023 Competition Calendar. There will be 12 World Cups in 10 countries, including six events in each of the sport climbing discipline: bouldering speed and lead.

Link in bio / Lien en bio

L’IFSC a publié, plus tôt cette semaine, son calendrier des compétitions 2023. Il y aura 12 Coupes du monde dans 10 pays, dont six épreuves dans chacune des disciplines de l’escalade sportive : vitesse, bloc, et diffidulté.
...

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